Urubko-camp again in Kyrgyzstan Denis Urubko and the team of Urubko-camp project on Khan-TengriIn the summer of 2017, Denis and his team from the Urubko-Camp project came to Kyrgyzstan to climb Peak Khan-Tengri (7,010 m) and make several first ascents to other mountains. The team, in addition to Denis Urubko, included Vladimir Ryazantsev and Vera Rogovaya (Russia), Maria Cardell (Spain).
Like last winter, when Denis Urubko alone (his teammates could not climb) climbed Khan-Tengri in the very cold and windy conditions, this expedition was supported by the Asia Mountains Company.
After a three-day trekking to the base camp on the Southern Inylchek the team established its camp under the flag of the Asia Mountains on August 8, 2017. Another flag Denis took with him to the summits
Ascent to Peak Chapayev on the new route
A few days later, the team climbed Peak Khan-Tengri and on August 27 Urubko-Cardell climbed a new line to Peak Chapayev (6,371 m). The route was named Shashka (a sword) with a preliminary difficulty category of 5A (Soviet mountaineering system). Three nights climbers spent in cracks without a tent, but that was the plan for this climb in the popular fast & light style.
On September 2, not only the new line was made but the first ascent of the mountain, which was called Irbis (a snow leopard), about 5,350 meters high. The massif with the top rises to an altitude of 5,000-6,000 meters. It divides the course of the Zvezdochka and the Southern Inylchek glaciers.
This time the Russians joined the team, but Miss Cardell with her frozen in the previous climb feet had to stay in the camp. The team worked on the route for 29 hours practically without rest and no sleep at all. They passed 22 ropes of rocks, ice and snow and met the beginning of the night of September 2 at the top.
So, that’s the expedition!