Lenin peak guide
We will introduce our blog readers to the guides who work on Lenin Peak. Today we’ll talk to Alexey Krivoruchko. Let's learn more about his mountain experience, climbs and personal qualities.
Alexey, tell us a little about yourself. How long ago did you start mountaineering?
Hello readers of the Asian Mountains blog, of course I can talk about myself for a long time, but I will try to be closer to the topic of our conversation.
My fascination with mountains goes back to my early childhood, when my father took me fishing in the mountains for the first time. I was born in the city of Semipalatinsk (now it is the city of Semey in Kazakhstan). I grew up in the Urjar region. The small village of Yuzhny, now it is Zhana-Tilek. The Tarbagatai ridge runs near the village.
One of my first memories is fishing with my father in the mountains. Thanks to him, I still go to the mountains.
The very fact of being in the mountains brings me joy, whether it’s just going out with friends along a simple route with gatherings around a fire or a difficult high-altitude climb.
I love mountains for what they are, regardless of the height of the peak.
I started mountaineering in 2013. Before that, he trained for several years at the mountain club PEREVAL, under the leadership of Vadim Pervakov.
During the 2020 quarantine, I changed my field of activity and it became difficult to go to the mountains on weekends with my section.
Today my mountaineering is mainly high-altitude. This is work with groups to Lenin peak.
On weekends I take people to the mountains. I pass on the knowledge that I received from my mountain teachers. This is a story that I can talk about for hours. Currently I have the second category in mountaineering, the first category in skyrunning. Seven successful ascents to Lenin Peak.
I chose the motto for myself: “Not every athlete can be a guide, but every guide must be an athlete!".
After many years in the mountains, which peak is your favorite? Why?
This question is difficult to answer, because each peak has its own unique beauty. For example, Lenin Peak (7134), which became my first seven-thousander in 2016 and still opens up every time with something new, bright, unforgettable during the next ascent.Which peak would you like to climb? What is your Dream mountain?
Of course, everyone knows about Everest (Chomolungma 8849 m), but I would like to climb K2 (Chogori 8614).
You are an excellent guide and climbers always leave positive feedback after working with you.
How to prepare for your first seven-thousander. What are your recommendations?
The main recommendation for climbing mountains is good physical preparation. Only here it is not the volume of muscle mass that is important, but functional training, the ability to work for a long time. Running is very versatile in this sense.
Long runs at low heart rates help prepare the body for altitude.
During running, we experience shortness of breath, and this indicates that the body does not have enough oxygen. A slight hypoxia occurs, as during high-altitude ascents. The body gets used to working in conditions of lack of oxygen. The main thing is to know when to stop. For example, hardy marathon runners are at risk during high-altitude climbs, but this is a separate topic.
Why should you choose Lenin Peak as your first seven-thousander?
Lenin peak, makes it possible, with the least risk, relative to other seven-thousanders in the post-Soviet space, to try what height is and retreat with the least losses if something goes wrong.
The logistics of Lenin Peak make it possible to lower an injured or sick participant in the ascent from 4400, this is the altitude of the first high-altitude camp.
From here begins a good trail along which goods are transported on horseback. And from an altitude of 3600 (base camp), an injured or sick person can be taken away by car. This can be done in almost any weather. Other seven-thousanders of the former USSR are not very convenient in this sense, because... sometimes you have to wait several days for a helicopter to evacuate, when time can be of the essence.
The common saying: “Lenin Peak, the easiest seven-thousander!” is, in my opinion, wrong. Logistics, yes, the simplest and most accessible, but otherwise, this is a peak with its own character, on the slopes of which there are very strong guys who have been to the top more than once before. Don't underestimate this peak.
How do you know if you are ready for Lenin Peak?
I recommend going on a multi-day mountain or forest hike. Live in the field, getting up early in the morning and following the route further, carrying a backpack, at least with your personal belongings.
I think this will be a good test. Many physically prepared people are not ready to sleep in a tent when the temperature outside is sub-zero. Not ready to bear the rigors of long marches.
Try multi-day hiking with an experienced guide. And I think it will become obvious to you whether you are ready to climb Lenin Peak.
How to check your health? What should you pay attention to?
Everything is simple here. You must undergo a medical examination at one of the sports medicine centers. Only a sports doctor can objectively assess your health status!
Is a basic mountaineering level required to climb Lenin Peak?
Of course, it is advisable to have skills in working with ropes and experience moving on a snow and ice slope, but for commercial ascents to Lenin peak, this is not critical.
Often, people who come to climb Lenin Peak do not have such skills. Guides conduct appropriate classes and people with the proper level of motivation and general physical fitness complete the route with dignity and reach the top. Of course, after this their views on mountain training issues change.
How long does it take to get from camp to camp?
It all depends on the general physical condition of the group or individual tour participant. On average, these are the following numbers:
The numbers are of course approximate. Trained athletes walk much faster, but less trained people sometimes have such a good margin of safety that even if they walk slowly, they still reach the top based on their moral and volitional qualities.
What are the benefits of a guided ascent?
A guide is a guarantor of safety, it is an experience that you borrow. You can be perfectly prepared physically and technically, but have no experience in high-altitude climbing, and then the experience of a guide is worth its weight in gold, because the price of a mistake can be health and even life. The life of each of us is priceless. Take care of yourself!
What are the advantages of climbing through a company with base camps?
The main advantage is convenience. In the base camps you will have hot food, the opportunity to take a shower, wash things in the washing machine, use free Internet services and most importantly, even if you come alone, in the base camps you will be able to discuss your tactical plan for the ascent and stop on time, listening to advice experienced guides and instructors.
Go to the mountains safely! Asia Mountains Company, has extensive experience in organizing high-altitude ascents in Kyrgyzstan and beyond.
Ascent to Lenin Peak with Alexey Krivoruchko:
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