By Guide Alexey Krivoruchko
Alexey Krivoruchko, a professional guide and experienced athlete, shared his impressions of the difficult ascent to Lenin Peak in 2024. The text below is written by Alexey.
25.07.2024 the group made an ascent to Lenin Peak (7134):
"The easiest seven-thousander", as this peak is often called, this year showed that this expression is inappropriate in principle. In my opinion, there are no easy peaks above seven thousand. One of the most accessible, I agree. It is very convenient to get to the base camp at an altitude of 3600 meters above sea level by land transport. Further, to an altitude of 4400 m. above sea level, where the first high-altitude camp is located, you can climb on horses.
Last several years Yukhin peak (5130 m) becomes more and more popular. The path to the summit goes through the first high-altitude camp (C-1 4200 m). In the high season (July, August), you can get to the summit in trekking boots.
Initially, I had a personal ascent to Lenin Peak, but the first few days, upon arrival in Achik-Tash, we went with Arman and Dina, Anya's friends, with whom we came from Almaty. When our joint program ended, Anya and I went to the upper camps for acclimatization.
About the difficulties of the ascent this season
There was a lot of snow this summer. The cracks along the way from Camp-1 (3600) to Camp-2 (5300) were mostly covered by snow bridges, but the main feature of this season was the severe weather above 6100. On July 9, 2024, instructors of the Mountain Training Center, Major Kurmanov B., Major Shokeyev E., under the guidance of the instructor of the Tuyuk-Su Alpine Camp (Kazakhstan) - Tursunali Aubakirov, finally climbed Lenin Peak (7134).
The mountain was reached by well-trained, athletic guys in difficult weather conditions.
And only on July 21, Sasha Sofrygin's group managed to make a path to the summit. By this time, Anya and I had two assault trips to 6100, three nights, not counting the acclimatization overnight stay, three hopes, three attempts to break through the bad weather to the summit. Common sense turned out to be stronger than ambitions and we turned around each time to try again to make the ascent.
"Glory or memorial!" I said to Anya during our next attempt at the assault, weighing the chances of going alone, without a path, in conditions of a knocking wind and poor visibility... It seemed to me that I saw Anya's tears through the dark glass of her windproof glasses.
"Groups of several strong men cannot get to the summit, they turn back and you did the right thing by making the decision to descend in time." - Vladimir Suviga, whom we met at 4400, told us. That's true, but it left a bad feeling, although it was my first experience of several attempts getting to the summit. As a rule, one unsuccessful attempt is enough and people go home. Anya turned out to be a "tough nut to crack", despite the fact that she looks like a very fragile girl.
On the evening of July 20, we descended from 6100 to the base camp. The next day, Sasha Sofrygin (from Kazakhstan) led his group to the summit.
The Summit: To be or not to be this season
"Alexei, there is no one else who can take the girls to the summit," - the manager of the Asia Mountains company, Katerina, told me on the morning of July 22. The guide who was taking Veronica and Joanna had serious health problems and urgently needed to be taken down to Osh, and the girls were planning to make a second attempt at the ascent.
It was hard for me to say "yes", because fatigue was still there. I had to come to an agreement with myself first.
After lunch, Anya and I climbed to Camp-1. She decided to join the group. A unique experience for me. Veronica and Joanna left in the morning, after I agreed to take them to the summit.
As it turned out, our progress was being watched not only by colleagues from the Asia Mountains company. There was even one "joker" who was leading a group for acclimatization in parallel with us and kept joking that we needed to choose the right guide, hinting that we would not reach the summit. But we must give him credit, de facto, he was "my assistant", taking care of Veronica and Joanna in every possible way, for example, he helped find warm clothes and a stove when it turned out that the sick guide's supply was lowered down from the third camp. By the way, who gave such a command, remains a mystery. So I am grateful to "our second guide" for help and support!
"Don't be offended by him! He's actually a good person, he just has that way of communicating!" Anya told me.
Summit
On July 25, the weather was not a gift, but several groups went to the summit. Before climbing to 6400, we overtook a large group of Iranians. The wind blew like from a wind tunnel, but we were all well dressed and, most importantly, had good motivation to go further.
I am convinced that after 6100, physical abilities fade into the background and moral and volitional qualities come into play. As soon as the scarlet strip of dawn appeared on the horizon, we passed the height of 6400. Mentally, for me this is the first "key" of the route. It remains to pass the second "key", called "Knife", a steep section where people usually hang the rope.
We found the old ropes and hung our ropes too. Everything is fine there now.!
said Sasha Sofrygin when we met him on the trail between Camp-1 and the base camp.
We have successfully passed the "Knife", the second key of the route. It remains to reach the summit, and this is already conditionally the third key. Huge fields of the parachutists' plateau, and then the "endless" ridge, when it seems that you have already risen to the summit, but this is not so. But then on the horizon appeared flags and a slanted cross of the summit with a small bust of Lenin.
The goal of so much effort. Emotions will be below. We quickly take pictures and hurry to go down, because the weather is only getting worse and it is desirable to pass the plateau of parachutists before it is covered with fog.
I hurry the girls and we forget to take a group photo from the top, but this is no longer important.
Descent to base camp
When we descended to Camp-1 the next day, we were greeted with a friendly welcome and treated to watermelon. At that moment, it seemed that there was nothing tastier in the world. Drinking is what you dream about on the descent, when you walk along the glacier. Melt water does not quench thirst and should not be drunk in its pure form.
Then there was a hearty and delicious lunch prepared by the chef of Asia Mountains - Maria. She is truly a cook from God! And for dessert we were treated to a celebratory cake!
We were waiting for you and were all very worried!
said Sergei, the head of the first camp at 4200.
That same day we went down to the base camp, where a delicious dinner and a celebratory cake awaited us. The girls were ceremoniously presented with certificates confirming their successful ascent to Lenin Peak (7134).
I would like to thank the staff of the Asia Mountains company for their work, thanks to which our ascent became possible! Thanks to everyone who worried, supported and helped us throughout the ascent program. Thanks to our family and friends for their patience in waiting for news from the mountain.
"The Easiest Seven-Thousander" - Every Year "Collects a Terrible Toll"
P.S. By the time we descended to the base camp, four people had died on the mountain. One of them "remained" on the "Knife" and we saw his body covered with a backpack cover already on the descent. On July 18, Anya and I miraculously avoided an ice avalanche in which the Russian poet, composer and mountaineer, and in the past - the main organizer of the Satka festival of bard songs Evgeny Bannikov died.
"The easiest seven-thousander" - every year "collects a terrible tribute". On its slopes remained such strong guys, who became legends during their lifetime, as Vyacheslav Sheiko, known as Slava Topol, Semyon Dvornichenko and many others...
Text author: Alexey Krivoruchko
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