This summer Denis and his team of the Urubko-Camp project came to Kyrgyzstan to climb Khan-Tengri Peak (7,010 m)  and make several first ascents to other mountains. The team, in addition to Denis, included Vladimir Ryazantsev and Vera Rogovaya (Russia), Maria Cardell (Spain).

The Asia Mountains Company supported this expedition as well as past winter one when Denis Urubko was alone (his partners could not climb) to summit Khan-Tengri Peak in very severe  conditions.

On August 8, 2017 after a three-day trekking to the base camp on the South Inylchek Glacier the team set up its camp under the flag of the Asia Mountains Company. Another flag Denis took with him to other tops. A few days later the team climbed  Khan-Tengri. On August 27th Urubko and Cardell ascended a new line to Chapaev Peak (6,371 m). The route was named Sword with an approximate category of 5A. Three nights were spent by climbers in cracks without a tent but this was the plan for this ascent in the popular fast & light style.

On September 2nd it was not just the new route that was made but the first ever ascent to the mountain which was named Irbis, about 5,350 meters high. The massif including Irbis rises to 5,000-6,000 meters. It divides the Zvezdochka and South Inylchek glaciers. This time the Russians entered the team but Miss Cardell had to stay in the camp with the frost beaten feet. The team worked on the route for 29 hours almost without rest and completely without sleep. They passed 22 ropes of rocks, ice and snow and met the beginning of the night of September 2nd at the top.

That's how this expedition turned out!

 

 

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