The Mountaneering Federation of Spain summed up results of the next Championship - 2017. In total, five awards were given in different categories: Rock Climbing and Bouldering (Escalada deportiva y bloque), Ice Climbing and Dry Tooling (Escalada en hielo y dry tooling), Wall Climbing (Escalada en pared), European Mountaineering (Alpinismo Europeo), International Mountaineering (Alpinismo Extra Europeo). Full information about the announced participants can be found here: http://www.premiosfedme.es/category/2017/
Two weeks ago the competent commission summed up this interesting and exciting derby, in which more than fifteen candidates were announced. To great joy, one of the winners was the team (Denis Urubko and Maria Cardell), who conducted the expedition with the support of our Asia Mountains Company this summer.
To remind you, the Base Camp of our company was opened on the Southern Inylchek Glacier. Sportsmen of the international team led by Denis Urubko spent a month of high-altitude ascents in the Central Tien Shan. Several peaks were climbed, such as Khan-Tengri (7,010), Songs of Abai (4,901), Chapaev (6,371) and Irbis (5,350).
The ascent to Chapaev Peak was done along the new route of the south-western slope. For three days Denis Urubko and Maria Cardell climbed a beautiful logical line with an altitude difference of more than two kilometers. On August 27, 2017 the athletes have ascended one of the most hard-to-reach mountains of the Tien Shan in alpine light style, without a tent, working for eighteen or twenty hours a day. Last time people were there 22 years ago, and for the first time in 37 years the new line was laid. It is mentioned by the American Alpine Journal, one of the leading consultants of the mountaneering world : http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214491/Pik-Chapaev-Saber-Pik-Irbis-First-Ascent-via-North-Face
On behalf of the Spanish mountain community the winners were announced at a solemn ceremony on December 16 in Madrid. The evening passed under the applause and cameras flashes. Participants were torn apart to interviews and video reportages. Here you can see the best ascents of 2017, carried out by Spanish teams: http://canalfedme.es/candidaturas-vencedoras-premios-fedme-2017/
We are especially pleased that in the most prestigious category (Alpinismo Extra Europeo) the winners were Denis Urubko and Maria Cardell, participants of the Asia Mountains International alpine camp . The award went to them for climbing Chapaev Peak (6,371). Their line was chosen among six equally worthy candidates. Congratulations! Wonderful alpinism! This evening, Denis and Mary became the heroes of the celebration and the only international team of such level. Madrid applauded climbers, handed awards with flowers. This is a part of our success together with you, friends.
Again to remind you the American Alpine Journal recorded to its archive another beautiful line of our team sportsmen. Denis Urubko, Vera Rogovaya and Vladimir Ryazantsev made their first ascent along the northern wall to Irbis Peak (5,350) on September 1, 2017. We are waiting for an interesting season with our athletes on the slopes of Lenin Peak (7,134) in the summer of 2018. The team is going to spend it with us. Welcome!
Denis Urubko - https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denis_Urubko
Maria Cardell with the award
Silvia Vidal, Denis Urubko and Maria Cardell