Mountain guides

 
- What is necessary for successful ascending of the mountain? Luck? Health? Good whether? – one beginner alpinist has asked a guide.
- Nonsense! – the guide answered. The most important for climber – is a good guide! Do you think, that guide’s task is to show the way? GPS can easily do it! To cook and to set up tents? Tourists can do this by themselves or to hire a cook if the have lots of money! The main guide’s task – is to create fighting mood! In high spirits even a tortoise can reach the summit.
Whenever we offer to tourists our guides we feel proud that such professionals work with us. There is no need to invent information about them. There are lots of good things already written ABOUT THEM.

Oleg Turaev (is known in alpinist society as “Elephant”)  - Master of Sports in Alpinism. He has been climbing mountains since 1985. Oleg is diversified and very interesting person. He is always unsatisfied with already gotten regalias and seeks for new impressions and achievements. He is very skillful as a high-altitude guide; he has finished a school of mountain guides in Switzerland. For now he is professional guide with a “sheepskin” (certificate of a degree). As a sportsman, he always tries to be first, not contrary but in accord with all the team, where he works. In his list there are lots of first passages, ascendings in the Himalaya, participation in a multi-racing world champion “Galoises Adventure Racing 2003”. He likes free-ride and boat racing. As a person, he is the most reliable and kind. He is polite with friends and clever with women.

Fixed date with Oleg:
27.07-09.08.2014



Igor Karabin – is “inhabitant of the world”. He feels convenient and cosy where the mountains are. He doesn’t have a problem of unemployment. He is able to guide trekkings, mountains and to high summits, to dive and build rope cities. For him it doesn’t matter where to live and what language to speak.
His record of service is: ascending of summits higher than 7000m – Lenin Peak, Khan-Tengri; skiing from Elbruss and Lenin summits; a guide for several international altitude expeditions at Tien-Shan; a rescue guide in the international base camp under the Lenin Peak; many years of experience of being an alpine skiing instructor; a guide for the region of Europe, South-east, East and Central Asia; experience of participating in rescue-and-recovery works, worker of snow-avalanche station in Chembulak (Kazakstan); worker of emergency service in Almaty city in 2008-2009; hitchhiker all over the world.



Alexander Agafonov – Master of Sports in USSR. He has been doing alpinism for really long time. He was a member of Central Sport Club of Army, where he has done lots of great ascendings. Afterwards he has spent many years in Ala-Archa gorge, being an instructor and doing sport ascendings. All this together gave him indisputable authority in alpine society. He helped disabled people to climb Mak-Kinley Peak. He has climbed Lenin peak with groups for numerous times, including winter ascendings. By the way, San Sanich is creative person, his ballad songs about mountains are being cited by many alpinists, even by those who have never heard his songs. You feel comfort with him anywhere in the mountains and in the most severe conditions. His sense of humor works all the time. He has spent lots of time and his power for grazing of young alpinists in Bishkek.

 



Maksim Bogatyrev – is a professional climber, guide and rescuer. He is a Master of Sports in sports hiking, a Master of Sports in mountain hiking, a Candidate on Masters of Sports(CMS) in alpinism, a CMS in orienteering, CMS in sport-tourist all around events, a president of Tourist-Sport Federation in Republic of Adigei  and he is a very good person in whole. He likes to work with Asia Mountains, to guide groups to Lenin Peak, to Muztagh-Ata peak. And he likes Asia in tote. He has lots of interesting in his record of service, for example – Ascending with disabled people to Mak-Kinley Peak, winter ascend of Lenin Peak, guide work for the program of 7 summits, and finally – Everest.

 

 

Pavel Vorobiev – Pavel arrived in Kyrgyzstan as a tourist, but this mountainous country touched his soul and he could not leave it anymore. And so he changed Moscow vanity for this mountain region. Moreover Pavel is certified guide. At the moment he is technical director of the Association of mountain guides of Kyrgyzstan. He has done study course in a Suisse school of mountain guide. His professional career started in 2004.
He supports three main principles in a guide work (priority-oriented):
1. Safety of clients
2. To give positive experience for clients
3. To reach the goal of climbing, travel.
In Pavel’s opinion the most important point of the tactic plan of any climbing is “To come back alive and healthy!”
He has following titles: Snow Leopard, badge of Rescue Team, alpine instructor. He has experience of rescue works at an altitude over 6900m.
His track record includes following climbs: the Caucasus, Zaalay ridge, the Tien-Shan, the Pamirs, the Alps, Karakorum. He has successful climbs with clients at the Caucasus, the Pamirs, the Tien-Shan, including seventhousenders.
Pavel likes to climb mountains as well as to ski down on skis/snowboard. So why he is also professional guide for heliski, skitouring, free-ride programs and backcountry camps. He is author of translation and adaptation in Russian language of the determination method of avalanche level danger and methods of risk’s decreasing. He guides avalanche courses and school of free-ride.

Interview with Pavel Vorobiev

 

Nikolay Totmyanin (08.12.1958) – has finished LGU (1981), physical mechanics.
Master of Sports – 1987
Snow Leopard – 1984
His ascents: 5 cat. 5a – 24, 5b – 17; 6 cat – 13.
7-thousenders – 42
Winter ascents: 5cat – 2, 6 cat – 3.
Best ascents: 
1990 – Lhoze along South side, 6b, ascent up to 8350m, Totmyanin N, Bershov S.
1990 – Communism along C via Dushanbe, 5a Klinetski E, Obihod V, Tarasov S, Totmyanin N (for 28hours from BC to BC)
1997 – Khan-Tengri along south, 5a Totmyanin N – alone (for 14hours 03min from BC to BC)
1998 – Pobeda peak (7439).  
1999 – Khan-Tengri peak (6995, twice), Pobeda peak (7439).
2000 – Lenin peak  (7134), Korjenevski peak (7105), Communism peak (7495). 
2001 – Lenin peak (7134), Lenin Peak  - alone (12 hours. 46 min. from BC 4200 to 4200). 
2002 – Khan-Tengri peak  (6995), Pobeda peak (7439).
2003 – Everest peak (8844м), ascent without oxygen

 

Dasha

Sergey Filatov -  was born and grew up in a mountain region, so he enjoyed being in the mountains from his earliest years. It didn’t pass with the years.
He is Masters of Sports of USSR in alpinism, 1998. He's a man with a lot of experience of guide’s work and alpine instructor under his belt. 
In his record of services he has more than 40climbs at seventhousenders of ex USSR, first climbs of Communism peak and Pobeda peak, first winter climb of Communism peak.
His climbing experience is: Central Tien-Shan (Khan-Tengri peak, Pobeda peak), Kun-Lun (China, Kongyr peak), Central Pamir (Communism peak, Korjnevskaya peak and etc), Zaalay ridge (Lenin peak), South-west Pamir (Marks peak, Engels peak and etc), Africa (Kilimanjaro peak), New Zealand (Mount-Kuk peak), South America (Aconcagua peak).
Besides his passion to the mountains he likes: alpine skiing (free ride), diving, video filming and splicing, guitar.

 

Andrey Erokhin

Was born October 10, 1984 in Frunze city (now Bishkek city) Kirghiz SSR (now the Republic of Kyrgyzstan). The main priorities for me in guiding is safety and success, this is why my favorite phrase is “Never climb with strangers”

Qualifications: In the period 2008-2011 was trained at Mountain Guide School in Kyrgyzstan according to IFMGA-UIAGM standards. On results of training and passing exams qualification is appropriated.
In 2008 he attended a course in first aid, as well as training in rescue and issued license number 262 Emergency Situations of Kyrgyzstan.
Since the autumn of 2009, a member of the Association of Mountain Guides of  Kyrgyzstan KMGA.
Instructor Methodist third category of mountaineering.

Experience: From 2004 to the present, working with clients in the areas Terskey Ala-Too, Kyrgyz Ala-Too, Central Tien Shan, Pamir. During 2009-2010 - worked as a guide in the high-altitude camp ABS Lenin Peak (7134 m). He participated in six expeditions, as an expert in mountaineering. He worked as an instructor in mountaineering at international fees «New Ala-Archa»  In 2011, climbed the Pobeda peak. (7439m).

Sporting achievements:
Mountaineering level: TD D+ ED+
Sport climbing level: 7a-7b on sight, 7c-8b red point.

Expertise: High-altitude and technical climbing, Instructional and Training Facilities, ski-tour, trekking, hiking, bike tour.

Languages: English, Russian

 

 

 

 

Boris Dedeshko

Professional guide from Kazakhstan is working with us this season.

This person has very important qualities: patience, reliability and trustworthy that is very important not in guide’s job but in everyday life too. Boris is one of the best guides, Professional Instructor, winner of the “Golden Ice Axe Asia” 2009.

Most significant summits:

2007: peak of Semenov Tien Shanski in winter 5B;

2007: peak Khan Tengri (7010м), from the North 5B;

2008: peak of Free Korea, 5B;

2008: peak Korona, 5th tower, 6А;

2008: peak Makalu (8463м);

2008: peak of Free Korea, 6А;

2008: peak Bayankol, south-eastern ridge (first ascent) 5А;

2008: peak Khan Tengri (7010м), from the South 5А;

2008: peak Marble  Wall (6400м), classic route;

2008: peak Yoshkar Ola, in the middle of western wall (first ascent) 5А;

2009: peak of Semenov Tien Shanski in winter 5B;

2009: peak Cho Oyu (8201м), south-eastern wall, first ascent with D.Urubko;

2009: peak of Semenov Tien Shanski  5B;

                        

Expertise: high altitude and technical climbing 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
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